Days 30, 31, 32 & 33 Tambo, Blackall, Barcaldine & Longreach

Bottle Tree - you know you are in Central QLD when you see these

Day 30 Tambo to Blackall 102 km

Woke up feeling good after an excellent sleep. Not having to pack up the tent and bedding meant I was loading the bike just before 7:00 am. The FoodWorks opposite the pub was already open. Unfortunately no sandwiches available. 

A nice little cafe was open so poached eggs with avo on toast with a latte was a good start to the day. Breakfast done I was on the bike leaving Tambo at 7:50 pm.

And from there bike life just got tougher. Headwinds all day. Traffic was less than yesterday and there was sealed shoulder most of the way to Blackall. The road trains were less intimidating too. It was the relentless headwinds that made it a long day.

Sadly I saw kangaroo hit by a road train coming towards me and an emu hit by a 4WD towing a caravan. Both were killed instantly. The emu upset me particularly as I had been watching it while I had lunch. Shortly after it inexplicably ran in front of the 4WD.

The area between Tambo and Blackall is known as the “rolling downs”. Unfortunately there was very little rolling without pedalling. A series of long hills that I made way up and then had to pedal down. I always feel robbed when I can’t freewheel down a hill.

Blackall sign on the way into town

At Blackall War Memorial 

Nurse memorial

It was after 4:00 pm when I finally arrived in Blackall. I found the caravan park and checked in. There was a cabin available so I paid up. I could also have dinner delivered to the cabin. 

After a shower I was captured by a couch that refused to release me. When dinner arrived I staggered to the door. The lady who brought my whiting and salad said “you are stiff and sore”

I have ridden 500 km in 5 days and hope I can keep going a few more days before I have break. Cairns is beckoning and I can be there in a fortnight. Hopefully I get some help from the wind.

Day 32 Blackall to Barcaldine 106 km

What a contrast to yesterday. Today I had a tailwind all the way.

I woke around 6:00 am. I had breakfast and packed up before 7:00 am. I was in 2 minds about getting on the bike. I was tempted to have a rest day as I was still feeling weary. On the other hand according to the weather app I should have a tail wind.

The park office was closed until 9:00 am so I would have to hang around until at least then to book another night. I decided to do a lap of the town before making up my mind.

On the way out of town

Black Stump replica

First stop was the “Black Stump” which is not the metaphorical concept I thought it was but was an actual historical artefact. The Black Stump was used as the central marker when Queensland was surveyed and actually hosted some scientific equipment. 

Back on the main street the bakery was open and  I was able buy some sandwiches. That made up my mind I was going ride today. It was a decision that paid dividends immediately as I was freewheeling at 25 kph shortly after.

The tailwind pushed me along above 20 kph most of the day and above 25 kph for a significant period. The road surface was good and there was sealed shoulder most of the way. I was untroubled by passing trucks as there was plenty of room.

At 11:30 am I stopped for an early lunch having already covered 64 km. With only 42 km to go I was certain to be in Barcaldine by 2:00 pm. I was 3 hours quicker than yesterday when I rode the same distance into the wind.

Tree of Knowledge 

Arriving in town I headed for the “The Tree of Knowledge”. Having satisfied my socialist obligation I then backtracked to where the caravan parks are. 

Having had a luxury cabin last night I am back to my tent tonight although I will probably have dinner at a pub.

Day 33 Barcaldine to Longreach 106 km

I did have dinner at the Shakespeare Hotel last night. It looked like a nice place to stay but I had already paid up $15 for some grass in a caravan park. It was a good choice as I had a camp kitchen to myself and was able to watch football on the TV after all the crusties had withdrawn to their vans.

Dinner orders were being taken from 6:15 pm at the Shakespeare. Luckily I was in early because they were running out of food by 6:30 pm and had stopped taking orders. $18 for spaghetti and meatballs. 

This morning I was ready to roll at 8:00 am. Another sunny morning with a light southerly wind. The road to Longreach goes northwest so the wind was helpful although not as strong as the previous day.

Wellshot Hotel

With the early start and steady pace I knocked 80 km by lunchtime which coincided with my arrival at Ilfracombe. The Wellshot Hotel had entertainment and food vans in their beer garden. 

One of the food vans (Outback Food Shack) had passed me on the road yesterday and tooted their horn so I went over to say hi and order a burger. The lady serving said they had tooted because they had been tour cyclists themselves having ridden the Gibb River Road in 2010.

After the burger and an elixir I was back on the road to ride the remaining 26 km to Longreach. 

As I passed the Qantas Founders Museum I spotted an echidna waddling through the grass. Unfortunately it got shy and tried to hide so I couldn’t get a good photograph. It had more patience than me as I stood quietly for several minutes hoping it would start moving again. Eventually I gave up, echidna 1 Joe 0.

QANTAS Founders Museum

Plucky echidna 

Another gateway to the Outback

Abandoned swallows nest in rest stop shelter

Cheeky magpie came for chat

I made the mistake of going to the 1st caravan park on the outskirts of town. I booked a tent site for 2 nights thinking I would have rest day to give me time to visit Qantas Founders Museum and the Stockmans Hall of Fame. I did enquire about a cabin but $185 per night was ridiculous. There were better choices closer to the centre of town.

Michael from Lynbrook came over for a chat. He is travelling around in a Hi Ace Camper. He set out 2 weeks after me and has travelled a similar route except the Menindee road was closed when he drove to Broken Hill. That surprised me as there was only some short sections of unsealed road when I went through.

After I showered I rode down to the main shopping area. Nothing was open. That left me with a choice of cooking dinner from my food bag or walking back to town to one of the pubs. I’m not keen on wandering around unfamiliar towns in the dark so I cooked pasta on my trangia in the camp kitchen. I finished with an orange and some chocolate.