Rest Day in Kerang & Day 4 Kerang to Swan Hill 70 km

I woke up still feeling tired. More rain on the radar as well so I decided to remain in Kerang for the day. A discount for cash made the decision easier (no correspondence from former colleagues please).

The area around Kerang was occupied by squatters from 1845 following Major Mitchell's visit in 1836. The Post Office was established here in 1858 two years before Burke and Wills passed through in September 1860.

Major Mitchell camped near here on 23rd June 1836

Until I started researching this trip I thought that Burke and Wills were exploring unknown territory however European settlers had already settled as far inland as Menindee on the Darling River by 1860. Although sparsely populated their route was not unknown and they were able purchase supplies as they went.

This is not to denigrate their journey thus far, there were no roads and the weather was often appalling. It was a huge physical achievement to travel this far with horses, camels and bullocks. They didn’t have the luxury of checking into a motel just because they were tired and cold. They did enjoy the hospitality of local landowners and their wagon train did draw the lots of attention from the locals.

So far on this journey I haven’t mentioned the birds I have been sighting. No photos unfortunately. If you interested there are plenty of pictures on the Internet that I don’t need to steal.

In the White Cedar forest around Mount Terrick there were large groups of White winged Choughs calling loudly. Choughs are members of the Corvid (crow) family. I find their red eyes and whistling call a little creepy. When they are disturbed they fly through the forest calling loudly.

Cycling across the Terrick Terrick plains I have seen lots of Nankeen Kestrels. These birds hunting technique is to hover in place to flush out their prey. Hovering  in place is a talent limited to very few birds. They are found near grasslands like the Terricks. They are a smaller raptor and mostly eat insects and mice. The crop growers around here should appreciate their efforts.

Yesterday afternoon for the 1st time on this trip I heard the distinctive sound of the Whistling Kite. It is a sound I most associate with the Murray River as it punctuated my kayak journey with Simon Righton. In some sections of the river there would be a Whistling Kite every one hundred metres. 

Other birds that I have seen - Eastern Rosellas around Mia Mia and Heathcote and Murray Ringnecks around Tragowel Swamp (South Kerang). 

Day 4 Kerang to Swan Hill 70 km

I woke up early anxious to be on my way. I left the motel at 7:00 am with sunrise still 20 minutes away. It was only 3 degrees and I could feel the cold in the tips of my fingers despite my gloves. This didn’t last long. Immediately after sunrise the temp rose enough that my fingers were comfortable.

Not far out of town I saw a sign pointing to Reedy Lake. Burke and Wills camped on the far side. I was looking for a sign I had read about. It wasn’t here but I did find another sign that amused me.

Bridge behind the sign

Given the state of the bridge I thought this sign was fair comment

It was a beautiful spot in the early morning sunshine. Not much further on the was another turnoff to an Ibis rookery. Another beautiful spot (ideal overnight stop - toilets and picnic shelters).

View of the rookery from the bird hide

Burke and Wills camp 13 sign

I rode on the Lake Charm where I stopped to make breakfast in the information shelter next to a service station. I read the interpretive information while waiting for the kettle to boil. Lake Charm was originally named Murder Lake due to conflict between European settlers and the local indigenous people. No further information about the conflict was provided. 

Breakfast cooking

From Lake Charm to Lake Boga went quickly. Flat road with a slight tailwind meant easy riding.

Lake Boga was the site of secret RAAF base during WW2 dedicated to servicing and repairing flying boats. Although mostly known for the Catalina Seaplane there were a variety of seaplanes stationed there during the war. I have wanted to visit the Catalina museum for a long time so I was very pleased to see it was open.

The exhibition was very good and the cafe there is excellent as well. I enjoyed my visit and my lunch.

Silo art at Lake Boga

Lake Boga is equidistant between Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney

Catalina flying boat

Pumpkin soup and sourdough for lunch (again!)

From Lake Boga to Swan Hill went quickly. I rolled into the caravan park by the river at 2:00 pm. Quickly set up my tent and went for a shower. When I can back there was a note pinned to my tent.

Note from Cheryl

It takes guts for to issue an invitation to someone you have never met so I was very happy to spend the afternoon chatting. Cheryl is travelling on her own as her husband passed away 3 years ago. She decided to carry out their plan to travel around in a mobile home. Part of the fun of solo travel is the people you meet along the way and I really enjoyed my interaction with Cheryl.

I’m really crap at selfies!

Finished the afternoon walking to some Burke and Wills Memorials nearby. 

I realised later Burke and Wills camped in Swan Hill at site that is now Riverside Park. This is of course where the caravan park I stayed in is located. There is no marker indicating this. It is mentioned in Dave Phoenix’s book.