Days 10, 11, 12 & 13 Mildura to Menindee

Day 10 Mildura to 65 km from Pooncarie

Spent a very pleasant time last night chatting to Liz and Peter from Tamworth. Liz had invited me to sit at their fire in the caravan park. 

This morning I packed up and left the Apex Park at 8:00 am. First stop was back at Langtry Cafe for the breakfast muffin and coffee deal. Then back across the George Chaffey Bridge into NSW. 

Left turn at Buronga onto the Silver City Highway towards Wentworth. Passed by Coomealla which had some indigenous artwork displayed at Namatjira Estate. The pictures on the water tanks are designed to appear continuous as you pass by.

Abbottsford Bridge at Curlwaa

Next stop Curlwaa where I had to stop and get a picture of the campsite on the other side of river. Simon and I camped there 2 years ago when we were kayaking from Mildura to Renmark. We were forced to further downstream by the stench of rotting carp. This was followed by the the large pumping station nearby starting up at 1:00 am. A memorable campsite!

10 km further on I was in a cafe in Wentworth drinking tea. Lisa and I stopped in the same cafe when she rescued me from Menindee last year. I bought sandwiches and an elixir (Coke Zero) and hopped back on my bike.

Lunch spot view

Powered by fresh legs and a tail wind I headed up the Pooncarie road. It was the best cycling so far on this trip. The road is roughly adjacent to the Darling River. I found a spot where the road was next to a river bend and stopped for lunch.

While I was there I got some messages from Lisa and Simon about some sad news at Wreck Beach on the Great Ocean Walk. I work in the area and regularly guide walkers down to Wreck Beach. Fortunately the incident was unrelated to the Great Ocean Walk.

After lunch I pushed on until 3:00 pm. Given it was  winter solstice I wanted get set up early and gather wood for a fire. I found a nice spot just out of sight of the road. Unfortunately plenty of evidence that other people have used this site previously.

Just on dusk my campsite was visited by a flock of Apostle birds. I love watching these chatty social birds. 

With the sun setting at 5:30 pm the temperature started to drop quickly so I lit the fire. Not much heavy firewood here but I had enough to have a good fire that kept going well into the night.

Without any mobile coverage I was glad I brought my Transistor Radio so I was able to listen to evening news and then the football.

Dinner was fried chorizo sausage with mashed potato topped with cheese.

It was a very clear night with an almost full moon. It was very light all through the night.

Day 11 Bush camp to Pooncarie - 65 km

Best sleep so far in this trip. I woke up at 6:45 am. According to my bike’s speedo it was -1.0 degree at 7:00 am. My tent was covered in frost and there was ice in my water canisters.

Frosty morning

Speedo showing -1 degree

There were still live embers from my fire so I added some kindling and got the fire going again and put the kettle on my stove. Even though it was cold it was a beautiful morning and I enjoyed watching the sun rise above the brush while I ate breakfast.

I was very slow packing up and only got out to the road at 9:10:am. Perfect conditions for cycling  - cool and still. With only 65 km to Pooncarie I was planning lunch at the Old Wharf Cafe.

At one point a farm ute with some bales of hay on the back drew alongside me. I was asked if I wanted to put my bike on the back which I declined but expressed my gratitude. Old mate was concerned I might have broken down.

Further down the road I was speeding along when I heard a voice call out. I was very surprised to see a bloke working on some fencing. Not sure how I had not seen him earlier. We had a lovely chat. He was very supportive of my adventure.

Darling River at the Old Wharf Pooncarie

Finally I arrived in Pooncarie just on 1:00 pm and immediately headed for the Old Wharf Cafe. I chatted with the proprietor saying I had been there last year after kayaking down the Darling.

A young bloke came over to enquire where I had come from. He was very surprised when I said Melbourne and even more surprised when he found out where I going.

Bill from Mildura was also keen to chat. He had seen me near Balranald and then again at Euston. Bill and his wife Lyndal had passed me on the Pooncarie Rd and were surprised when I arrived at the cafe not long after them.

On my last visit to Pooncarie I arrived in town by kayak without any idea how I was going to get back to my car in Menindee. The Pooncarie - Menindee road was closed so the only option was to drive via Wentworth and Broken Hill. There was a NSW Link bus from Wentworth to Broken Hill and a local bus service to Menindee but I was 120 km from Wentworth. 

Fortunately Denis from Willow Grove walked into the cafe and asked how to get to Menindee with the road closed. I saw an opportunity and persuaded him to drive me. 500 km later I was reunited with my car and my wife. 

Lisa arrived in Menindee shortly before us having flown to Broken Hill via Adelaide and then taken the bus. Lisa had originally declined to rescue me in Pooncarie but changed her mind.

Pooncarie Pub

$10 campsite by the river

After lunch at the Old Wharf Cafe I visited the pub and to paid the camping fee for the nearby Multi Purpose Park by the river. I could have got a room at the pub but decided to forgo that for a camp on the river. 

Burke and Wills Camp 30 was at this site although local legend suggests the site was opposite the current post office. 

I found a nice campsite and got my tent out to dry in the sun. The park was busy with caravans but my unpowered site was away from the crowd

I did get a visit from Graeme delivering firewood which I purchased so I could have a fire later in the evening. 

Dinner at the Pooncarie Hotel, chicken schnitzel with chips, salad and gravy. Most people at the pub were locals and I felt like I had landed from Mars. There didn’t seem to be anyone else from the camping park although they may have attended later. 

Day 12 Pooncarie to Karoola Reach, Darling River 60 km

Another chilly night, negative two according to the man who served me breakfast at the Old Wharf Cafe. There was a little ice on one side of the tent but I was sheltered by some trees.

I was very comfortable in my sleeping bag so I was reluctant to emerge before sunrise. Hence I was slow packing up. I did make it to the cafe for breakfast by 8:30 am and was on the road by 9:15 am.

Another sunny but frosty morning 

Progress was slow all day. There was a persistent breeze that pushed me back as well as continuous long rises. I only covered 60 km in 5 hours. I knew I could not make Menindee today but I expected to be closer than half way.

I stopped for lunch at 12:00 and set up my chair and stove. 2 minute noodles reinforced with carrots broccoli and beans. I also ate some cheese. It doesn’t sound like a lot but I had eaten a good breakfast and some sesame snaps earlier.

Just near the lunch spot a large kangaroo had become road kill. It was on a curve with double lines. As I was sitting there a car with caravan came around the curve and then suddenly swerved to miss the kangaroo. I could see an accident occurring if someone was coming the other way so I went and dragged the carcass off the road.

Back on the bike I pedalled on until Phil a retired shearer pulled over for a chat. He was on his way to Broken Hill before travelling through Western Queensland on his way to the coast. He also gave me an Orange which was delicious. 

Karoola Reach campsite

Just on 3:00 pm the road came up to a bend in the Darling River. I discovered later that this spot is called Karoola Reach.  Having pedalled 60 km I was happy to find a nice campsite by the river and set up camp.

The muddy gutter

It is easy to see why the Darling gets called “the muddy gutter”. The banks here are steep and the edges get very muddy as the water level drops. It was very similar last year when I paddled my kayak through here.

One of the local girls waiting to be picked up 

I laid my tent out to dryin the afternoon sun and went to gather firewood. There wasn’t a lot around but I was lucky someone had already collected some and left it nearby. This included a large piece that burnt all night.

Day 13 Karoola Reach to Menindee 60 km

Last night was milder, 5 degrees at 7:00 am with 18 degrees predicted for Menindee. It was a lovely morning and enjoyed the last of my muesli sitting next to the fire.

Emus racing to cross the road ahead

Karoola Reach

Just before sunrise

It seems impossible to pack up quickly. At 8:10 am I thought I was on track to depart at 8:30 am however it wasn’t until 8:50 am that I was finally ready. 

Today was a repeat of yesterday with the north westerly wind in my face all day. It meant that I was going 15 kph at best and often only 12 kph. It also there was absolutely no freewheeling. I had to pedal continuously in order to progress.

Burke and Wills memorial at Maidens Inn

Crossing the Darling at Menindee

Fortunately Menindee was only 60 km away so I wasn’t worried at my speed or lack of it today. However if this wind persists I shall struggle going toward Broken Hill.

After arriving in town I checked in at the Burke and Wills Motel. I stayed here last year with Lisa on my way home from the last leg of my Darling River. Chatted with Darryl the proprietor who I have met before, he stored my car while I paddled down to Pooncarie last year.

Later I went to the grocery store to look for some stores. The selection was very sparse. Presumably the locals shop in Broken Hill. It limits my options as there are some things I need before too long.

Menindee was the last European outpost on Burke and Wills journey north. They stayed at Pains Inn now Maidens Inn. It has been rebuilt since their visit. Their next campsite is about 20 km out of town at Copi Hollow although there is a marker at Menindee Weir. According to the book the marker at the weir is in the wrong place.

Another anomaly at Menindee is the grave of Dost Mohamet just outside town. Dost was injured when attacked by a male camel. According to the book he was returned to Melbourne and repatriated to India. The grave here apparently belongs to another Afghan.